Huckleberry but no Finn
Post-hike Feast. Niman Ranch Brisket Hash with two eggs overeasy and arugula. Cold, roasted brussel sprouts.
Cubes of tender brisket, sliced potatoes, soaked in a tomato based sauce. Topped with over-easy eggs, and a hefty side of peppery arugula.
When the dish arrived, it seemed like a brisket stew with sliced potatoes. The sauce was crimson-orange, a bit watery, with an orange coating of oil that sat at the top of the dish. The arugula was light, peppery, and fresh, just as it should’ve been. However, presentation wise, the dish felt like a helpless, wet, claustrophobic child stuffed into a box…albeit a delicious child. Okay…end analogy.
In my mind, a hash is supposed to have the same consistency of diced onions…meaning everything is in more or less the same size in terms of volume and shape. In a sense, the brisket hash that arrived was somewhat deconstructed, hopefully in a meaningful way. I’m sure the line cooks didn’t just get lazy. Part of the experience in a hash comes from the combination of flavor all in ONE bite, meaning it all has to fit on a spoon, like an hors d’oeuvre. The brisket was tender, the potatoes gave the perfect amount of starchy resistance, the arugula provided the peppery bite, the egg added a smooth body, and the sauce cut through the richness of all the elements. I could hardly fit that all into a sentence, much less my mouth, due to the chunky, jumbo nature of the hash. So, not exactly traditional, but at least the ingredients were well combined. Nothing too special, just a solid brunch meal.